WHITHER THE INDIAN TOURIST?

On a recent visit to the remote valley of Zanskar in Ladakh, I came across a large number of foreign tourists. People from all over the world -Germans, French, Dutch, Israelis, British - to name a few, thronged the place. They arrived after a treacherous 12 hour road journey from Kargil over a risky half metalled road, or trekked 10 days all the way from Manali. Amongst all the energetic activity in a beautiful and forgotten corner of India, one kind of tourist, however, was conspicuous by his absence . The Indian tourist. Which got me thinking. Why is it that a part of India which is a world wide attraction , fails to attract any attention from within its own country?

The place which has endless multi colored hues of mountains shining in all their glory. Different colors - Crimson Red, Steel Gray, Pastel Green, Pale Yellow, even Milky White adorn these magnificent, huge features, giving them a special life of their own. The casual trekker comes across breath taking scenes of glaciers stretching away for as for as the eye can see. Crystal clear streams cross the path, descending hundreds of feet in a cascade of beauty to join the main river below . Another major attraction is the Centuries old traditions preserved undisturbed in this ancient land . Being cut off from the out side world for up to nine months a year even today, the sight of several centuries old monuments is not uncommon . One Buddhist temple is 900 years old , another has an idol installed by the great king Kanishka. The Buddhist Monk Dance of Zanskar is one of its purest forms surviving today. And yet - no Indian tourists.

Perhaps as a race we are just not interested in all this. Adventure does not lure us, traditions repel us. All the average Indian looks for on a holiday is a place which has cool air, a good marketplace where he can splurge his money, Punjabi dhabas where he can eat butter chicken to his heart’s content. Where is the adventure spirit in us? Why are we afraid to go out of the narrow confines of materialistic enjoyment? Perhaps we are too scared of enjoying the beauties of nature as it involves a bit of work. No one wants to walk - trekking is an arduous task. Having recently got our rightful share of the Marutis, the Fords, the Toyotas and the Hyundais, we do not want to go anywhere which will take us away from our beloved cars. But ask anyone who has actually ever done a trek - and he will tell you of an enchanting experience which cannot be forgotten in this lifetime at least. The peace & calm, the lovely sights enroute, the gushing streams and a wild “marmat” or Ibex surprising you with its grace - these are feelings which are not forgotten in hurry. And yet we as tourists are happy with scrambling across the 50ft piece of ice above Manali blackened with dust and smoke, just because a road goes there - ignoring the vast and magnificent beauty beyond.

And who is interested in tradition? Perhaps we already have an overdose in our society. While the entire west looks towards us for solutions to their inners upheavals, we as a nation are busy aping the west. No one has time for elaborate rituals that are thousands of years old. After all, we are too busy attending the shopping festivals at Dubai, or scouring the streets of Singapore for bargains. Not for nothing are Indians reputed to be some of the most voracious spenders on foreign jaunts!


Yet for an extremely economic holiday, and to get away from the stress and strain of daily life, I would still suggest a trek in the Himalayas. The Zanskar valley is a ten day trek from Manali, and thereupon there is a further seven day trek to Lamayuru near Leh. One can even go to Leh by road from Zanskar, going through the now famous Kargil. Enroute are visible the famous twin peaks of Nun-Kun, both over 7000 meters high and a favourite of mountain expeditions. Needless to say, they are covered with permanent milk- white glaciers. The more adventurous lot can plan a mountaineering expedition to these famous twin tops, which will take about a fortnight in actual execution. Padam, which is the headquarters, offers several options for staying in the form of hotels and camping sites. The desert mountains all around are a feast for the eyes - with not a blade of grass growing and huge rocks weathered into exciting shapes of all types. And if one is lucky, one may get to witness a famous Ladakhi dance. All this is available in only one place in the world - Ladakh - and we have it in India. Now if only we could shake ourselves out of our Marutis and Santros ………